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Muere Pierre Cardin a los 98 años

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Pierre Cardin ha muerto hoy a los 98 años en el Hospital Americano de París, cuando el mundo de la moda llora todavía la muerte de la top model Stella Tennant.  Con su muerte termina una forma de entender la moda, se dice adiós a la edad dorada de la costura y se cierra una parte de la historia. Era el diseñador más veterano, el gran maestro que todavía seguía en activo. La moda le dio fama, popularidad y fortuna pero su talento se expandió más allá de la costura. Para Pierre Cardin la pasarela era todo el planeta y por todo el globo terráqueo paseó su trabajo y su nombre. Era un genio, un hombre con un gran talento que deja un legado tan grande como importante que ha inspirado e inspira a muchas generaciones de jóvenes creadores de todo el mundo.

Retrato de Pierre Cardin que fundó su firma en 1950. Reuters

Era una ‘vaca sagrada de la moda’, un maestro de fama mundial. “Es un día de gran tristeza para toda nuestra familia, Pierre Cardin ya no está. El gran genio de la moda que fue, atravesó el siglo, dejando a Francia y al mundo un legado artístico único, pero no solo”, ha escrito su familia en un comunicado. “Estamos orgullosos de su tenaz ambición y de la audacia que demostró a lo largo de su vida. Hombre moderno con múltiples talentos y una energía inagotable, se involucró muy pronto en los flujos de la globalización de bienes y el comercio”. Las redes sociales se han convertido en un libro de condolencias: diseñadores, modelos, estilistas, gente del espectáculo…, todos han querido despedirse del maestro y dar el pésame a la familia, 

Cardin apostó fuerte por el estilo espacial. Este diseño es de 1967. AFP

En los últimos años estaba muy centrado en su trabajo y apenas veía lo que hacían sus compañeros más jóvenes. Tan solo estaba pendiente de Jean Paul Gaultier, que empezó en su taller. “Tenía 17 años cuando entró en mi empresa. Lo lancé porque creí en él y sigo creyendo en él. Es un provocador pero yo soy más recatado”. Por eso sorprendió que no asistiera al desfile que el diseñador hizo en enero de 2020 para celebrar sus 50 años en la moda y decir adiós a las pasarelas. Ahí surgieron los rumores sobre su estado de salud pero pronto se diluyeron.

Pierre Cardin en una de sus últimas apariciones públicas, en febrero de 2020. Reuters

A finales de febrero, Cardin presentó a uno de sus últimos protegidos, un joven de 27 años llamado Pierre Courtial y apadrinó su primera colección, presentada en su estudio de la Rue Saint-Honore de París. “Se presentó en mi taller como todos los jóvenes que buscaban trabajo y noté su personalidad y su originalidad enseguida. Así que confié en él porque estoy creando un estudio para diseñadores”, decía. Muchos pensaron entonces que estaba buscando a su sustituyo, a la persona elegida para continuar su trabajo y perpetuar su nombre.

Pierre Cardin en 1944 Reuters

Pierre Cardin comenzó trabajando para Schiaparelli, Paquin y Dior. AFP

Corría 1945 cuando un joven de tan solo 23 años llamado Pietro Cardin viajó de su Italia natal a París con la maleta llena de sueños que en enseguida empezaron a hacerse realidad. Aprendió en talleres tan relevantes como los de Jeanne Paquin y Elsa Schiaparelli y tan solo un año después de su llegada ya estaba en nómina de Christian Dior. Fue uno de sus mejores aprendices. En 2019, durante una entrevista sorprendió a todos diciendo que el icónico traje ‘Bar’ lo había hecho él. “Cuando Dior abría sus puertas a las 8 de la mañana, yo ya llevaba media hora esperando. Era el primer empleado de la casa de Dior y en ese momento nadie le conocía. Fui su primer empleado”, decía en una de sus últimas entrevistas.

Pierre Cardin se sumó a los cambios sociales de los 60 con la moda unisex. AFP

En 1950 ya tenía su propio taller de costura en la rue Richepanse y en 1953 formaba parte del selecto grupo de la Alta Costura. Durante toda la década su fama y su carrera fueron creciendo dentro y fuera de Francia. Saltó con toda naturalidad de la alta costura al prêt-à-porter. Fue un pionero del cambio y en 1959 hizo una colección para los Almacenes Printemps que hizo que lo expulsaran de la Cámara de la Alta Costura. “Fundé el Teatro Nacional Popular de la Costura”, decía a menudo para quitarle hierro al asunto y dejar claro que democratizó la costura: montó su departamento de prêt-à-porter femenino, lanzó líneas de niño y hombre e incluso se inventó la tela ‘cardine’, que se hizo famosa gracias a los diseños y trajes que llevó Lauren Bacall.

Pierre Cardin apostó fuerte por la estética de la carrera espacial. AFP

Diseños de Pierre Cardin de 1967. cropper

Pierre Cardin es sinónimo de revolución y evolución. Experimentó en todos los oficios de la costura, con todo tipo de tejidos y supo derribar las barreras de género, haciendo de la moda unisex una bandera de libertad. “Fui muy afortunado por formar parte de un periodo en el que había que volver a hacerlo todo. Las mujeres querían ir de fiesta, bailar, divertirse; aquello tenía su lado sexy”.Enseguida supo que la carrera espacial marcaría la vida de la gente y, por ende, los armarios. Modernizó la moda con formas, colores y texturas inspirados en las naves tripuladas, los uniformes de los astronautas y la NASA. “Mi prenda favorita es la que invento para una vida que aún no existe”, decía. 

Solo moda monográficos – Pierre Cardin – Ver ahora

Fue el primer civil que se puso el traje espacial de Buzz Aldrin -el hombre que pisó la luna con Neil Armstrong-, el primer diseñador en aparecer en la portada de la revista Time y el primero en hacer un desfile en la Plaza Roja de Moscú, en el desierto de Gobi y en la Muralla China. Fue el rey de las licencias y su éxito se extendió al diseño de muebles y automóviles, a la hostelería y sobre todo al teatro, su gran pasión. Fue figurinista y diseñador de decorados. “Entré en la moda para ganar dinero y poder hacer teatro”, dijo en 2014 durante una visita a Madrid para hablar de su trabajo como productor teatral.

Pierre Cardin revolucionó la moda y experimentó con los tejidos. AFP

En el cine y televisión también tuvo una potente carrera como diseñador de vestuario y trabajó con directores como consagrados como Jean Cocteau, Max Ophüls, Louis Malle y Roger Vadim. Vistió a actrices fabulosas como Jeanne Moureau  (con la que se dice que mantuvo un affair, Brigitte Bardott, Mia Farrow y Jane Fonda. Hizo el vestuario para el actor Patrick Macneela en la famosa serie ‘Los vengadores’ y una de sus incondicionales clientas, y amiga íntima, fue la cantante francesa Mireille MathieuHa tenido la carrera más extensa de la historia de la moda. Ha saltado de década en década y ha cambiado de siglo. Es un caso excepcional. Por eso, cuando algún periodista joven se le acercaba para hacerle una entrevista solía decír: “¡Como puedes ver, existo!”. 

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